Sleeping In A Nature Preserve
The loud chatter of thousands of birds wakes me up in the morning. As I slowly return to reality I realize that I slept in a Mayan hut, with no windows, only screens to keep the bugs out. We are in Calakmul Nature Preserve, in Campeche, Mexico.
When we first arrived, we noticed a family of howler monkeys up in the trees above the huts. One of the Mayan guys working there smiled and told us in broken English that ten individuals make up this family. They have lived in the trees within the hotel boundaries for years.
The hotel Puerta Calakmul seems more of a village with individual huts, each with a short path leading to it. We’ve stayed there in the past and always had a great experience. It is one of the best places where we have seen a lot of wildlife, and experienced life in the jungle.
Exploring the Preserve in the Ruins of Calakmul
In the early morning we take off on the sixty-mile dirt road that leads to the ancient site and the trails. The road is so narrow, two cars can barely fit through and the canopy encompasses it. We are driving in a tunnel of green. We keep it slow in the hopes to see wild animals close to the road. Iguanas are sitting in the middle of the road every so often, basking in the sun. It is hard to make them move, at times we stop altogether until they take their time to walk off. We spot a few ocellated turkeys, their colorful plumage bright against the surrounding green. Later on, we even spot a peccary wandering close to the road.
On the trail, we try to walk without making too much noise or talking. Birds chatter, insects buzz, and lizards run around in the dried leaves under our feet. The jungle is full of life even when it seems quiet.
We catch up with a group of local birdwatchers. One of them offers her binoculars to our daughter and points out a bird for her to look at. Soon we all take turns with her binoculars. We follow her directions and notice a tiny bird that looks like a toucan, only much smaller. She is colorful and her yellow beak is huge compared to her body. Soon I spot a few more close by in the canopy. We learn that they are called toucanitos, or little toucans. There are a few of them together, we find out as we watch them for a few minutes.
As we make our way through the ancient structures, we see a family of spider monkeys on the top of the trees. They seem to be resting, some of them sleeping with their long limbs dropping on the sides of a branch.
We spend all day on walking on the trail, and climbing structures. We hear the distinctive call of the howler monkeys from the top of a pyramid, though they are hard to spot from that height.
Back to Our Mayan Hut
When we return to our hut, the howler family greets us. They throw sticks and half-eaten fruit at us, trying to either get our attention or chase us off. We decide they want our attention and stand under their tree for a long time, watching them. I notice a tiny baby on his mother’s back. Other young howlers also walk around the mother, while the older ones hang in trees close by.
Night in the Jungle
At night, we sleep surrounded by the music of the jungle, the sounds of crickets and insects, bats, and owls, tree frogs and lizards. Then suddenly, as soon as we fall asleep, we are awakened by the loudest growls we could imagine. For a moment I think it might be a jaguar, but I realize that it is the howler monkey family.
Someone or something woke them up and they are all howling and hooting, growling and roaring. We record their sound, it is amazing! As we listen, we start to discern the sounds of the big males, the young monkeys, the mother and even the baby. Soon they settle back to sleep, and the night is quiet once again.
Quiet is relative in the jungle. In this case it means the sound of crickets, insects, tree frogs, bats, owls, rodents, lizards moving. It is the most relaxing music to fall asleep to.
As soon as the sun’s first rays peek over the horizon, the loud chatter of thousands of birds wakes us up. As we walk out, we notice all of them, in the trees that surround us. They are big and small, colorful and plain. We even recognize the mot-mot bird, with its distinctive long tail feathers.
We set off for our next destination, one that will involve more nature preserves, both in the jungle and on the coast of the Yucatan peninsula.
What Is Calakmul?
Calakmul was an ancient Maya city, one of the greatest in its day. At the moment it is one of the few an archaeological site where you can still climb the pyramids. Sitting in the middle of the jungle, in a nature preserve, it is off the beaten track. Spending time there is an adventure in itself, especially for children, if you are traveling with them.
Since it is out of the way, at the end of a sixty-mile dirt road, the best option is to stay at the only hotel close by, La Puerta Calakmul. If you really want to rough it, there is a camping site within the preserve, but I haven’t tried it.
La Puerta Calakmul has different size rooms, all in stand-alone huts, or bungalows. No TVs in the rooms to distract you, but you do have signal if you carry a cell phone. The rooms have comfortable beds and hammocks, with modern bathrooms. Although instead of windows, you are surrounded by netting, they are very well insulated, so no mosquitoes or bugs of any kind get through. The beds have mosquito netting, just in case.
The hotel also has a restaurant, that has some of the best meals I have ever tasted. If you go to the ruins for the day, you can also buy packed lunches to bring with you, since you will most likely spend the whole day there. The pool is small, but clean and refreshing, especially after a long trek in the jungle.
How to Get There and Other Helpful Information
Cancun is the easiest airport to get to on the peninsula, and chances are, you might want to visit other sites, or spend time on the beach as well if you’re there.
Rent a car and drive towards Tulum. You might want to stop there and enjoy a day on the beach or visit the site of Tulum. Then keep going south, towards Bacalar. This is another place you might want to stop, for a beautiful lagoon, called Laguna des Siete Colores or the lagoon of seven colors. It is beautiful and worth a swim. You can find a hotel in Bacalar for any budget, right on the water if you wish. From Bacalar, you need to take the road towards Xpujil. Shortly after you pass the town of Xpujil, you’ll see the road to Calakmul.
The hotel Puerta Calakmul is on the left, off a short dirt road, right after the turn-off. You are in a nature preserve here.
When you walk in the preserve, make sure you carry enough water, and snacks. Wear good hiking or walking shoes. Wear a hat and sunscreen, and keep bug spray at hand. Remember that is hot and humid, especially during midday, so dress accordingly. Being in a nature preserve, there is no real dress code, even in the more traditional Mexico. I would just stay away from very short shorts or crop tops.